Bonarda a.k.a. Bonarda Piemontese
Pronunciation: Boh-NAHR-dahWhere it's Grown:Bonarda is from the Italian peninsula and is still grown there like the other 1000+ indigenous varietals. It’s most notable wines, however, come from elsewhere. Argentina received the grape through the settling of a large population of Italians. It was the backbone grape of the wine industry as it churned out large quantities of average wine. This was critical to a country who was one of the top two consumers of wine per person in the world. With the decrease in per capita consumption and the increase in foreign influence, the grape has taken a backseat to Malbec.
Bonarda was, and is, very adaptive to the Eastern Mendoza heat and continues to be grown in that area. In this much warmer and sunnier climate than the home from which it migrated, it is capable of making intense and lovely wine. Much of it is grown under pergola style vine training to protect it from the intense heat of East Mendoza, but as you move to the west, you find it in the trellised rows we think of when a vineyard comes to mind. Argentina will save this grape from ambiguity and indeed give it an international face, in the way that California succeeded with Zinfandel.
What to expect: In Mendoza, Bonarda gets very ripe, so it has both red fruits and some black fruits. The overall tone of the wine will head toward jammy but not abandon the traditional red fruit tartness that is embraced in Italy. People who like Syrah and Zinfandel are normally very happy with these wines, as it has some similar characters to both grapes. Regardless, well made Bonarda is delightfully enjoyable red wine that easily embraces food.
The Italian version is often blended into to other wines, and seeing a pure version in the American market is rare. They are generally light and fresh and pleasant when served fairly cool.
Melon should be driven by lemon juice and lemon peel. It will then be accented by green apple in the skin and a definite note of toasted bread or rising dough. Refreshing and straightforward...
