Merlot
Pronunciation: Mayrh-lohWhere it's Grown: Merlot is grown just about everywhere! It is one of the original Bordeaux region varietals that has spread it’s influence around the globe. Historically it was the predominant varietal planted all over Bordeaux. After phylloxera destroyed the vineyards in the 1890’s, the Médoc, on the left bank of the Gironde River, replanted with a majority of a relatively new grape varietal. That new varietal was Cabernet Sauvignon which had been created through the crossing of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc in the 17th century. Even with that change in the primary grape of the Left Bank of Bordeaux, Merlot continues to be the most widely planted grape vine in the vineyards of the greater region. Most bottles of Bordeaux in our market are indeed 50% or more Merlot. From Bordeaux and Bergerac, which is next door, it has made its way throughout Southwest France.
Due to the popularity of the grape in France, it spread elsewhere in Europe and in the European settlement of other continents. Other wine areas that now grow this grape successfully include Northeast Italy, Tuscany, and Umbria (Italy), Bulgaria, Slovenia, as well as Spain. Northeast Italian Merlot is centered on the appellations of Friuli and Breganze, Tuscans grow it all over and use it in blends mostly, and Umbria makes a few Merlot focused wines. Bulgaria has the capability of making really lovely Merlot but has opted, so far, for filling the everyday “cheap” wine category. Slovenia has some remarkable specialty producers near the Italian border making Merlot of world class character and Spain is using it mostly as an everyday table wine grape.
As Europeans settled in the rest of the world they took Merlot with them and planted it in New York, California, Chile, Australia and South Africa. All of these regions have both stellar examples and cheap table wine examples. From California the grape was taken to Washington and Oregon. From New York the grape travelled to the middle of the USA and so now we find it throughout the Midwest States. Interestingly each of these areas have a different presentation of grape which shows how much any grape is affected by the place it is grown.
What to expect: Merlot is grape of deep coloring, and even in cooler climates like Michigan or New York, the resultant wine will have at least violet tones. In warm regions like Washington, California, Breganze, and Bordeaux the wine is quite purple in its hue. The color also reflects the basic idea of flavor. In cooler climates you should expect to find red fruits, like ripe raspberry and cherry, alongside black plums. When the grape is treated to lots of sunshine and warmth the fruit darkens to blackberry, blackcherry, black currant, and black plum. The warmer climates also create a very jammy/conserve approach to the fruit.
The structure of Merlot offers tannin that is somewhat powdery and not nearly as aggressive as Cabernet Sauvignon. Well made Merlot is a wonderfully round supple wine that really slides across the palate in a most friendly way. The aging potential of Merlot is based on both climate and winemaker style. If the climate allows the grape to maintain the necessary tartness, and the winemaker keeps the wines components balanced, the resultant wines will age very well, even for decades. Traditional St. Emilion and Pomerol wines from Bordeaux are 10 to 50 year wines, while warm New World areas are mostly drink immediately, or up to 10 years. Another aspect of Merlot is that it will often display leafy, herbal, or vegetal characters which are an accent or a distraction depending on their prominence, and your taste.
