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Cabernet Sauvignon

Pronunciation: Kab-air-nay Soh-veen-yohn
Varietal of the week, August 15, 2009

Where it's Grown: Often called the King of Grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon is grown in just about every wine region in the world. It has its origins in Bordeaux, where it was created in the 17th century by crossing Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. The popularity of the grape is based on the ease of cultivation, hardiness of the vine, and the thick grape skins which yield bold structured wines.

Both of the parents of this grape are aromatically driven, with pyrazines that yield the green flavors of Sauvignon Blanc and the peppery notes of Cabernet Franc. Genetically, the child will inherently reflect the parents, and Cabernet Sauvignon certainly does. In cool to moderate climates the pyrazines are maintained in the grape skins, and the wines therefore have mint, eucalyptus, and bell pepper notes. Some have decided the bell pepper note is a flaw, but in balance with the rest of the wine, it is a pleasant nuance.

Bordeaux vineyards in the Médoc are now dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. In the early 20th century as the region recovered from the devastation of the Phylloxera epidemic new plantings were predominantly this relatively new variety and Cabernet Franc, Merlot and other traditional varietals gave way. Most wines of the area today are between 60% and 75% Caberenet Sauvignon with the other Bordeaux varietals filling in the balance.

The fame of wines from Bordeaux has encouraged the spread of our featured varietal into Spain, Italy, Bulgaria, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Canada, California, Washington State, Michigan, New York, Texas …See what I mean, it is everywhere. No where has it been more promoted, or perhaps at home, than Napa Valley. From the first plantings in this fantastic wine region the potential was seen as world class. Once the area recovered from prohibition the potential was once again realized and started to take the world by storm in the late 1970’s. Northern California has now taken its rightful place as one of the world’s most elite wine regions and most of the reputation is hinged on Cabernet Sauvignon.

South America is heavily planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, especially Chile. Chile has moved from heavily pyrazine driven wines, green dominated, to wines of excellent balance and depth. The top tier of these wines will compete with anyone. The value oriented wines are great for everyday drinking and now show the best of the grape by being fruity and aromatic.

Australia has adopted Shiraz as its calling card but Cabernet Sauvignon certainly has an important place in the vineyards. Coonawarra, in South Australia, is the most distinctive region as it offers a clear note of eucalyptus perfume in the nose. Western Australia’s Margaret River is the other most impressive region for this grape.

The Italians and Spaniards have mixed it in with traditional varietals and created stand alone versions as well. The region of Bolgheri in Tuscany is a prime Cabernet Sauvignon area known for rich, lush wines. Ribera del Duero, in Northern Spain, has been mixing it with Tempranillo for a century and the nearby region of Navarra has been using it for at least 50 years as a stand alone.

What to expect: When drinking a wine from the Loire, the first thing to note is the amazing amount of tartness from the acidity. The lime zest and green apple are normally moderated by some amount of residual sugar that rounds out the wine. Classically, there is a definite note of honey to Chenin, and the smell of wet wool or lanolin. This is also a very floral grape with bouquets of honeysuckle jumping from the glass in most cases.

The dry wines can be very austere in youth but blossom with significant aging. The not dry to sweet wines really should develop in the bottle for a decade or more to reach their potential. Some of the most amazing sweet wines I have ever tasted were Chenin Blanc wines from the Coteaux du Layon region with 15 years of age or more. Far from old, they were toddlers with the playful entertaining side we all embrace.

The calling card fruits of Cabernet Sauvignon are black currant juice to dried black currants, with age cassis, blackberries, plum, and some red berries. The tannin level of the wines is noticeably astringent and sort of plating on the teeth and gums. When grown in cooler climates, the green pepper to roasted, red pepper is prevalent. In warm climates like Napa, the wines have very little green and instead are lush and velvety.

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"The juice of the grape is the liquid quintessence of concentrated sunbeams."
Thomas Love Peacock
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